Tote bags: basics and beyond, Part I: Sewing info
FORM AND FUNCTION OF A TOTE BAG
Think about a bag you reach for most of the time. What do you like about it? Is it comfortable in your hands? Does it have features like pockets that you need? Is it pretty? Washable? Durable? Are the straps just the right length?
Now think about a bag you’ve kicked to the corner. What don’t you like about it? Is it ugly? Ripped? Too small? Too large? Floppy? Cheap-looking? Dirty-looking? Do things get lost at the bottom? Does it leak? Are the straps coming off? Does it have advertising or a logo you don’t like?
Tote bags have:
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
TECHNICAL TERMS
FABRICS
Fabrics recommended for all sewists
Fabrics recommended for experienced sewists
Handles/Straps
Sources for Fabric and Findings (zippers, buttons, etc.)
Avoid
EQUIPMENT:
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT:
SEAM FINISHES
An unlined bag will have a visible seam inside. It may be OK, or the fabric may ravel and fray. Here are some seam finishes: stitch a second row within the seam allowance; trim raw edges with pinking shears; zigzag stitching near raw edges; press under raw edges and topstitch each edge; stitch overcast or overlock on raw edge; enclose raw edges in French seam.
CLOSURES
INTERFACING/BATTING
Think about a bag you reach for most of the time. What do you like about it? Is it comfortable in your hands? Does it have features like pockets that you need? Is it pretty? Washable? Durable? Are the straps just the right length?
Now think about a bag you’ve kicked to the corner. What don’t you like about it? Is it ugly? Ripped? Too small? Too large? Floppy? Cheap-looking? Dirty-looking? Do things get lost at the bottom? Does it leak? Are the straps coming off? Does it have advertising or a logo you don’t like?
Tote bags have:
- front and back
- straps or handles
- lining (plain or waterproof)
- pockets
- clips for keys
- closures
SEWING SUGGESTIONS
- Press or iron frequently
- Don’t sew over pins
- Make sure your scissors, shears, rotary blades, pins, and needles are sharp
- Seam allowance: ¼” to ½”
- Snip your thread ends
- Take your time, think things through, measure before you cut
- Work in good lighting
- Once you learn the basics of bag construction, feel free to experiment
TECHNICAL TERMS
- Loosey-goosey: loosely woven, wiggly
- Wonky: crooked
- RST: right sides together
- WST: wrong sides together
- WOF: width of fabric (selvage to selvage)
- Selvage: finished edge of woven fabric
FABRICS
- Make sure your fabrics are washable; baggers at the grocery store don’t want to handle dirty bags
- Wash and dry your fabric before you start. Wash out sizing, dyes, odors. Drying will shrink fabric if it’s going to shrink. Press to make it lie flat.
- Consider using darker-colored fabrics for the outer bag and lighter-colored fabrics for the lining.
Fabrics recommended for all sewists
- Cotton: quilting calico, broadcloth, drapery
- Cotton-polyester blend
Fabrics recommended for experienced sewists
- Knitted jersey: stretchy, wonky seams
- Linen: frays, wrinkles, loosey-goosey
- Rayon: loosey-goosey, wonky seams
- Corduroy, velveteen, terrycloth: nap (directional), pile (sheds when cut)
- Plush, fleece, minky: nap (directional), pile (sheds when cut), stretchy, can be wonky
- Wool: shrinks, special care needed
- Denim, canvas, cotton dropcloth, ticking: thick seams, likely to ravel (loose threads) or fray
- Waterproof: special handling needed
- Upholstery: nubby, loosey-goosey, can fray
- Flannel: can be loosey-goosey, can fray
- Burlap: loosey-goosey, sheds horribly when cut, you’ll sneeze
- Shiny polyester (prom dress): very slippery, you’ll swear
Handles/Straps
- Material should be sturdy and feel good in your hands
- Sew your own using fabric and interfacing
- Flat webbing: nylon, polypropylene, cotton
- Heavy braid or ribbon
- Rope: can be covered with fabric
Sources for Fabric and Findings (zippers, buttons, etc.)
- Your own stash
- Your own closet
- Old textiles
- Friends
- Fabric stores and outlets
- Thrift shops: fabric and clothing
- Yard sales: fabric and clothing
- Quilt shows
Avoid
- Threadbare
- Badly ripped or stained
- Smelly/dank
EQUIPMENT:
- Sewing equipment: sewing machine OR hand-sewing materials: needle, thread, scissors
- Cutting equipment: rotary cutter, cutting ruler, cutting mat OR yardstick, pencil, shears
- Thread
- Shears
- Scissors
- Pencil or marking pen
- Seam ripper
- Ruler
- Thread: avoid cheap polyester or old spools from thrift shop
- Pins and holder (magnetic or pincushion)
- Iron: steam or spray bottle and pressing cloth
- Chopstick for poking out corners
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT:
- Pinking shears
- Small hammer for pounding thick seams
- Wonder clips or hair clips
- Fusible bonding (ex. Stitch Witchery)
- Sewing machine feet: ¼”, walking, zipper
SEAM FINISHES
An unlined bag will have a visible seam inside. It may be OK, or the fabric may ravel and fray. Here are some seam finishes: stitch a second row within the seam allowance; trim raw edges with pinking shears; zigzag stitching near raw edges; press under raw edges and topstitch each edge; stitch overcast or overlock on raw edge; enclose raw edges in French seam.
CLOSURES
- Zippers: not covered here as the construction is somewhat different
- Snaps: sew on, magnetic, 4-part; may be attached with special pliers
- Buttons with elastic or fabric loop
- Velcro
INTERFACING/BATTING
- Gives shape to your bag, handles/straps, pockets
- Make sure it’s washable
- Variety of weights, materials, and functions (ex. insulating, like Insul-Brite)
- Sew-in or fusible (ex. Pellon light or medium weight fusible)
Copyright Jane McLean, 2025